Zion 100K – Heavenly Scenery and some Hellish Terrain!
It only took a few miles into this race before I realized that I vastly underestimated it! My second 100K race, I chose this run in southern Utah for five reasons. One, it scheduled nicely during my son’s spring break allowing me to make a family vacation around it. Two, the course description sounded outstandingly beautiful. Three, it was in a state I needed for my 50 state race challenge. Four, it sported a large field. And five, it would be excellent training for my upcoming summer 100 mile race. And it turned out to be all of those things and one other I didn’t anticipate. It was a lot more challenging than I anticipated!
Now in no way was I expecting an easy 100K. But I thought with its overall elevation gain of 7,100 feet—and considering I just ran a 50K in Northern California with the same elevation gain—that this race would not be too difficult. What I wasn’t counting on was the terrain. I’ve done most of my ultra-races in Washington, Oregon and California generally on well-groomed trails with switchbacks and minimal obstacles.
Welcome to the Southwest! While long stretches of this race were on easy-to-run dirt roads, there were many stretches of rocky single track, a brutally steep climb and accent involving a 1500-foot rocky gully, and miles of slickrock—which was like running on uneven concrete with lots of dips and twists. And while junipers and pinyon pines graced the mesas—they provided little to no shade. The Virgin Desert below the mesas provided no shade at all. And a morning cloud cover meant that we started right away with warmer than expected temperatures.
This was my first run at a Vacation Races Event (but next year’s will be directed by Aravaipa Running). They specialize in putting on family friendly destination runs near iconic national parks and other outstanding landmarks. While this race doesn’t go through Zion National Park, it traverses stunning public lands adjacent to the park with sweeping and breathtaking views of some of the park’s prominent peaks. The Zion 100K was part of an event that included a 100 mile, 60K and a couple of shorter runs. I shared time on the trail with 100 milers and 60K runners for a total of more than 600 of us out there in the Southern Utah wilds. Participants came from all over the US and Canada. I absolutely love the large fields as I thrive on the interactions along the way and shared accomplishments.
From Apple Valley on a plateau high above the Virgin River Valley we were off at 6.30 am. It was a quick start downhill on a backcountry dirt road. We passed folks camped and were greeted by a beautiful sunrise over the flank of towering Navajo sandstone peaks in Zion National Park. We were then on rolling curving single track making two distinct loops on Wire Mesa. Views were stunning over the Virgin River Valley to Zion Canyon and to Smithsonian Butte towering above us. The trails teetered along the edge of the mesa at times—not a course to let your mind run adrift. The trail was rocky with lots of ledges and lined with spiky plants. Anyone who can complete this run without tripping and picking up a thorn deserved a special finisher’s medal!
Next was a long mostly uphill stretch on dirt road to Gooseberry Mesa. We would run a more than 10 mile loop atop this massive mesa almost all on slickrock slowing the pace and requiring lots of attention. It was difficult going but incredibly scenic. The route traveled right along the towering mesa’s edge in places. At Crazy Jug Point, the course’s highpoint, a knife edge had to be negotiated. It was a bit unnerving with gusty winds greeting us there. Views of the surrounding desert and wall of Zion National Park peaks were jaw-dropping.
I did pretty good staying hydrated in the sun and wind. I kept my head, neck and arms covered the entire way preventing me from overheating or getting sunburned. At mile 35 came one of the hardest stretches of trail I’ve endured in an ultra-race. We descended the Mondo Z Cut off of the mesa to the desert below on a steep rocky hellscape losing 1200 feet in one 0.9 mile segment. The route then rolled through the Virgin Desert.
Aid stations were well supplied and I was able to keep food down and stay hydrated. But I didn’t have a crew, and while the volunteers were good at the stations—I’m used to them being more active filling water bottles and getting you what you need. It definitely took me more time to get through the stations which added time to my run.
As the sun began to set I ran along the edge of the Virgin River Canyon. It was then through the small town of Virgin on a stretch along a paved road. At mile 52 I passed right in front of my hotel where my wife and son greeted me with a hot cup of coffee and a cold Gatorade. They walked with me for a short stint before I headed back onto the trail and into the darkness. I had 1600 feet of climbing awaiting me and that nasty rocky stretch through the Mondo Z Cut.
I had my trekking poles with me and I couldn’t imagine working my way up that incredibly steep route without them. My years of mountain hiking paid off as I continually passed struggling runners on this climb. I sighed a huge relief upon reaching the mesa top. It was then just 5 miles of dirt road to run to the finish line. The desert darkness was calming. I expected to encounter a few critters, but the night was pretty still. At 11.45 pm I crossed the finish line coming in at 17 hours and 15 minutes. Slower than I wanted, but a half hour faster than my previous 100K in which I had a crew and pacer. I placed 122nd out of 211 and was the 3rd oldest finisher. My wife and son greeted me at the finish. It was then off to a warming tent for some recovery foods. But most of my recovery eating would wait until the next day as my stomach was not too interested in taking in calories after such a demanding day.
I got to bed late and slept really well. I felt pretty good with no cramping, blisters or major fatigue. The next day we headed to Zion Canyon and hiked a little more than 10 miles on the park’s easier trails. Met fellow Zion Ultra runners (our shirts gave us away) in the park and we instantly bonded. We capped off the day with a splurge at Springdale’s Arctic Circle restaurant with a burger, fries, fired zucchini and a banana shake. The only thing more satisfying was the hotel hot tub afterward,
As usual my prerace breakfast included a scramble with potatoes and my recovery meal included potatoes. Utah is not a major potato producer but it’s home to the Four Corners Potato, a native wild nutritious potato that was cultivated by indigenous peoples for over 10,000 years. This nutrient dense potato is being revived as a crop; much like Washington’s oldest native-variety Makah Ozette Potato. Skagit County potato farmers have been growing these nutritious native tubers and they are finding their way to more modern plates!
I’ve got just shy of three months to go for my next 100 mile race. I continue to focus on nutrition and training—and of course rest and recovery as well, especially as an older athlete. My next scheduled race for my 50 state challenge is a “short” one, the Casper Wyoming Marathon in June. I’m looking forward to it, state number 14; and to many more miles of discovery on my feet!
Big Thanks to the Washington State Potato Commission for sponsoring me. I’m proud to be a member of Team Potato and to showcase the nutritional value and performance enhancement of potatoes as I train for my second 100 mile run—and continue to run a marathon or ultra-marathon in all 50 states! Utah makes state number 13. I’ve got many miles and places yet to go—and lots of potatoes to consume to power me along the way.
